Introduction
Rubiaceae
Asclepiadaceae
Nepenthaceae
Bromeliaceae
Orchidaceae
Polypodiaceae
Ecology and
evolution
Cultivation
References
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Cultivation
Myrmecodia and Hydnophytum species grow well in any standard epiphytic mix:
fir bark, sphagnum, or tree fern. Some growers use peat-based mixes, and I have recently been
experimenting with aliflor and coir (coconut husk) chunks.
Water when the mix is almost dry. The plants will shrivel if they are kept bone dry for an
extended period.
Both Myrmecodia and Hydnophytum can be mounted, but mounted plants will require more frequent watering.
The plants should receive some direct sun. For lowland species, including most of the species found in
cultivation, temperatures should probably not be allowed to drop below 59 F (15 C). Cold temperatures
and wet potting mix may rot the tuber. In North Carolina, the plants respond very well to summers
outside, where they experience bright sun, high humidity, and temperatures ranging from the upper
90's F (35-38C) during the day to the 60's and 70's (15-25 C) at night.
The leaves of Hydnophytum and Myrmecodia seem highly susceptible to infestation by
mites, so keep a close eye on them during warm, dry weather. Mites can be controlled by washing
the foliage under running water. The only other pest I've seen on the plants is soft scale which
is easily controlled by a variety of insecticides. Indoor growers should consider isopropanol,
Safer insecticidal soap, or mechanical
removal (i.e. pick and squash). Greenhouse growers can use systemic insecticides.
Seeds can be removed from ripe fruit and dried
overnight. For best results, its seems best to sow the seed soon after harvesting. Any moist surface
will suffice for germination, but long-fiber sphagnum seems to be an excellent substance for growing
the young plants. Do not bury the seed in the potting mix.
Dischidia vines can be can be grown in pots or hanging baskets, but they will look more
natural if grown on a branch or moss covered board. Adventitious roots will soon anchor the
plant to the mount. In baskets, long-fiber sphagnum moss works very well. The plants
should be given bright light and, if mounted, watered frequently. In the pitcher-leaf species
like Dischidia major, the long thin stems with circular leaves die back in dry
conditions.
The short stems with pitcher-leaves are more drought tolerant. Tender young growths of
Dischidia are susceptible to spider mites (see above for treatment). The plants may be easily
propagated by cuttings, and Dischidia pectenoides produces many self-pollinating flowers and
lots of seed. Fresh seed germinates rapidly on a moist surface.
Lecanopteris ferns do well in either
a pot or basket with any open epiphyte mix. I particularly like to use sphagnum moss in a plastic
basket. In high humidity, it may be feasible to grow them
mounted on bark. Most species prefer cool conditions and bright light, but they will tolerate hot
summer days if nights are cooler.
Spores of
Lecanopteris mirabilis sown on a block of treefern and kept at 75-80 F produced visible
prothalli within a month. Tiny sporophyte rhizomes with young fronds were visible after 18 months.
While prothalli were growing, the treefern block was kept in a shallow saucer of water in a closed
terrarium. Once sporophytes were visible, the block was placed in plastic pot filled with a mix of
chopped fir bark and sphagnum moss. Transferring the treefern block directly to a pot minimizes
disturbance to the young ferns. L. sinuosa sporelings readily volunteer in the pots of other
plants, as the spores are spread by the greenhouse fans.
I have not been able to keep
Solanopteris brunei alive for more than about a year, and it probably requires
cooler temperatures than I can give it.
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