1. Remove the butt plate assemble by unscrewing the two screws under the flip up piece.

2. Remove the stock liner. If you don't have the stock liner tool you can use a set of needle nose pliers. Slightly open the pliers and insert the tips into the holes in the stock liner screw.  Turn counter clockwise to loosen. Be careful not to scratch the stock or stock liner screws. Once both screws are removed you can remove the stock liner. Pry out both sides toward the center then rotate down.











3. There is no need to remove the front sling swivel or stock feral. You can tape off these parts with masking tape, but I have found this to be unnecessary.



4. To strip off the old stain and grime, spray the stock inside and out with Easy Off Oven Cleaner. I use the “Fume Free Max” version. Let stand 3 to 5 minutes. Scrub the stock with a stiff brush or scotch bright pad. Rinse the stock with the hottest tap water you have available.



5. Let the stock dry completely. Do not dry it in the sun or near a heat source. I hang mine in my workshop for 48 hours.

6. Sand the stock. Be careful to avoid the cartouches if you want to keep them. I put my thumb over the cartouche when I get near it. Do not sand too much. Try to keep the edges of the stock sharp. I hardly sand at all on the top where the receiver sits and on the bottom where the trigger group locks up. I start with 220 grit paper, and this first sanding does most of the work. Next I sand with 400 grit paper. The final sanding is done with 600 grit paper. After each sanding wipe it down with acetone or denatured alcohol.



When you wipe it down with acetone or denatured alcohol you will see the approximate color of the stock as it will look with an oil finish. Do this to decide if you want to stain it. Staining will enhance grain and figure.





7. If you decide to stain it, use an alcohol based stain. You want to separate the staining and sealing processes. Oil based hardware store stains are not the best way to go. You can buy alcohol base stain or dyes at woodworking stores and on-line.

http://www.furnitureknowledge.com/alcohol_based_stains.htm

You can also make your own stain by mixing Rit Dye (found at the grocery store, fabric store, or on-line) with denatured alcohol. Mix a packet with approximately 1 cup of denatured alcohol. I have achieved a nice red-brown using Rit Cocoa Brown.





The great thing about alcohol based stains is their adjustability. If the stain is too light just give it another coat. If the stain is too dark, wipe the stock down with denatured alcohol to lighten it. Alcohol based stains also dry very fast and will not obscure the wood grain like most hardware store stains will. Let the stock dry for 24 hours after staining.

8. Apply 3 or more coats of Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish. Do both outside and inside including the storage holes. Follow the directions on the can. The more coats you give it the more “depth” to the finish.  This will be a satin or semi-gloss finish, not a military finish.





9. Apply 1 to 3 coats of paste wax. I have used both Howard’s and Minwax and prefer the Minwax. It dries harder and shines longer. Follow the directions on the can.



10. Re-install the stock hardware, your done!

You can clean and touch-up as needed using your paste wax.